I’m playing a new game this summer called “What can I smoke next?” My Big Green Egg plays a big role in this game, and I think it is going to be really fun. My goal this summer is to smoke as many different meats and other food stuffs, in as many different ways as I can. There is just something very satisfying about hanging out in the backyard with friends, cold libations and the smell of smoked meat lingering in the air. So far, we are two rounds into this game.
Smoked Pork Butt
The first round was dueling pork butts over mesquite, one BBQ and one Adobo. Both were smoked low and slow until fork tender and then finished with respective sauces. The BBQ pork was turned into sandwiches and served with pickles and grilled veggies; all delicious. The Adobo Pork was pulled and simmered in Salsa Verde for another hour. We ended up making tacos out of the Adobe Pork with queso fresco, lettuce and tomatoes and after many servings of deliberation the Adobo Pork was the victor.
Jerk Chicken
The next round was Jerk Chicken over Pimento wood chips. For truly authentic Jerk, this in the only way to grill. The chicken was marinated overnight in my homemade jerk blend based on the recipe I got while visiting Montego Bay. The trick here is to use the legs and thighs; they are much less expensive and absorb more flavor.
For smoking the meat, I used a plate setter in the grill between the grate and the coals. This acts a diffuser, giving you an intense, indirect heat. The soaked wood chips are placed on top of the plate setter, not in the coals. Pimento wood can make food a little bitter if it burns to hot. By placing them on the plate setter, they will smoke without burning as fast. This will give a more balanced flavor. The Jerk was cooked at 425 degrees until the internal temperature was just less than 165 degrees; the carry over heat will finish them. We served this with some mango salsa and coconut sweet potato puree.
Next up is beef brisket. What are you smoking this summer?
How does great food arise through conflict? Let’s take the most common sauce found in every kitchen: vinaigrette. We have two things that really don’t like each other, vinegar and oil, and we force them to come together by means of whisking and emulsifying with air. The result is a smooth, crisp, refreshing sauce for salads, vegetables, etc. Take this one step further and apply it to all other emulsified sauces like hollandaise, bernaise, aioli, etc. and you end up with rich, luxurious sauces that all started with ingredients that wanted nothing to do with each other.
Another example is a little more abstract, but I think still fits. Celiacs and those with gluten allergies can’t digest a specific protein found mostly in wheat products. That conflict has given way to an emerging market and a real solution to the disease. If you take a look at gluten free food from a decade ago, it was rather bland and uninspiring. Now due to demand and progress in food science, there are many gluten-free foods out there that can fool even the diehard bread lover. Just the other day, I had some gluten-free cinnamon rolls that I could have sworn were from the local bakery.
For the brown kraut, you start with a half pound of bacon in a medium sized soup pot and render until almost crispy. Add in one sliced medium onion, one stalk celery finely sliced, and one medium carrot shredded and sauté until onions are lightly caramelized. Deglaze with water if needed. Once some color has developed and the veggies have softened, add 1.5t caraway seeds and toast. Add a 16oz. bag of plain sauerkraut that has been well drained, 1-2T apple cider vinegar and a little white or brown sugar. Season with S&P and cook for five minutes to develop some more caramelization. Cover the kraut with just enough cold water to come to the top and cook on low heat for 5-6 hours, checking every half hour or so to make sure that it doesn’t start to dry out. Serve with roast pork, sausages or any other BBQ.
The dough starts with 2 sticks of butter and three cups of whole milk. Gently warm in a small pot until all the butter in melted. Next add 1 tsp. lemon zest, 1tsp. ground anise, pinch of salt and ¼ tsp. cardamom, if you like. Allow to steep for 10 min. and then let cool to room temperature. While the milk mixture is cooling, take 1½ T. of yeast and activate with ½ cup warm water and a pinch of sugar. Once the milk mixture has cooled off a little, add in the yeast and start adding AP flour. It will be between 3-4 cups, maybe more. The trick here is to get the dough to come together, but it will still be a wet dough. When properly mixed, it will still be tacky, like focaccia dough. Place in a large bowl, and allow to rise until the dough doubles in size.